Tropical gardens

A tropical garden in Surrey is not about pretending the climate is something it is not. It is about understanding which large-leaved, architecturally dramatic plants are genuinely hardy in South West London conditions, which tender species are worth the winter protection they require, and how to design a scheme that delivers the lush, bold impact of tropical planting without depending entirely on plants that will not survive a Surrey January.

The tropical garden style is the most immediately dramatic of all the approaches covered in this cluster. Where a contemporary garden impresses through restraint and a naturalistic garden through ecological complexity, a tropical garden impresses through sheer presence. Large leaves, vivid colour, layered canopy density, the sense of vegetation pushing outward and upward with genuine vigour – these are the qualities that make a well-planted tropical garden in a Surrey rear garden genuinely arresting, and genuinely different from anything else its neighbours are likely to have.

It is also, of all the styles in this guide, the one that rewards knowledge most directly. The difference between a tropical garden that looks convincing and one that looks like a collection of exotic plants that have been placed without design thinking is significant. The difference between a tropical planting scheme built on genuinely hardy species that will develop over years and one dependent on tender plants that require annual lifting, storage and replacement is the difference between a sustainable garden and an expensive horticultural project. This guide covers both distinctions honestly.

What defines the tropical garden style

The tropical garden style is defined by bold foliage, layered planting density and a sense of abundance that is quite unlike any other garden approach. Where most British garden styles value restraint in some form – the restrained palette of the contemporary garden, the naturalistic garden's editing of species, the formal garden's submission of planting to structure – the tropical garden values abundance and drama above restraint.

The defining qualities are these. Large-leaved architecture: the most essential element of any tropical scheme is the presence of large, bold leaves that create a sense of scale and lushness. Musa basjoo, Gunnera manicata, Tetrapanax papyrifer, Melianthus major and Fatsia japonica all deliver this quality at different scales and in different conditions. Layered canopy: a tropical garden is built in layers, with tall canopy plants providing overhead structure, mid-level plants filling the middle zone with bold foliage and flower, and ground-level planting covering bare soil with dense growth. The layered quality creates the sense of depth and density that makes tropical planting convincing. Vivid colour: whether from the flowers of Canna and Hedychium, the foliage of coloured-leaved Canna and Colocasia, or the stems and bracts of bamboo and banana, colour in a tropical garden is bold and unapologetic. Warmth and shelter: tropical planting performs best in sheltered, warm positions where the microclimate moderates the effects of cold winds and early frosts. The enclosed walled gardens of Richmond and Kingston town centre, the sheltered south-facing rear gardens of larger Surrey properties, and the warm courtyard gardens of urban properties are all natural homes for tropical planting.

What the tropical garden is not is a collection of individual exotic specimens placed in an otherwise conventional garden. A Trachycarpus fortunei in a lawn surrounded by bedding plants is not a tropical garden. A Musa basjoo in an exposed north-facing garden that receives no reflected heat and no shelter is not a tropical garden – it is an inappropriate plant placement. The style requires design as much as any other approach, and the design begins with understanding the conditions that tropical planting needs to thrive.

Surrey conditions and the tropical garden

South West London and Surrey are considerably more hospitable to tropical planting than most of the UK. Several factors combine to make the KT and TW postcodes among the best locations outside London for growing bold exotic planting outdoors.

The urban heat island effect, most pronounced in the inner suburbs of Kingston, Richmond and Twickenham, raises average temperatures by one to two degrees compared to open countryside and significantly reduces the frequency and duration of hard frosts. Most winters in this area see minimum temperatures of -5°C to -8°C, with only occasional colder events. The majority of genuinely hardy tropical species – Trachycarpus fortunei, Fatsia japonica, Phyllostachys species, Musa basjoo – will survive these conditions reliably without protection.

The proximity to the Thames corridor brings moderated humidity and relative shelter from cold northerly and easterly winds. Gardens with a south or south-west aspect, or those enclosed by walls or neighbouring buildings, accumulate warmth through the day and lose it slowly through the night, creating exactly the microclimate that marginal tropical species require.

Surrey's London Clay, usually identified as a challenging condition for garden design, is actually an asset for tropical planting. The moisture-retentive, fertile clay suits the heavy, vigorous growth that large-leaved tropical species depend on. Gunnera manicata, Musa basjoo, Persicaria and the large-leaved moisture-loving plants that create the most dramatic tropical effects are all adapted to fertile, reliably moist soils. Unlike Mediterranean planting, which fights against the clay's water-retention, tropical planting benefits from it.

The qualification is drainage. While tropical plants generally tolerate moist conditions, they do not tolerate standing water around their crowns through winter, and several of the most important species – Hedychium, Canna and tender Musa relatives – will rot at the crown if left in waterlogged ground. Ensuring that the soil drains adequately in winter, while retaining moisture in summer, is the key soil management objective for tropical planting on Surrey clay.

Soil preparation for tropical planting on Surrey clay

The preparation required for tropical planting on Surrey clay is less intensive than for Mediterranean planting but still important, particularly for the large specimens that create the most dramatic effect.

Deep cultivation to a minimum of 400mm breaks up any compaction layer and allows the large root systems of mature tropical specimens to establish freely. On sites where the soil has been compacted – by construction activity, by heavy foot traffic, or simply by years of neglect – decompaction is the single most effective intervention available. Musa basjoo producing three-metre stems in its second season rather than its fourth is directly attributable to properly decompacted, organically enriched soil.

Organic matter incorporation improves soil structure, increases the biological activity that supports vigorous plant growth, and moderates the moisture extremes that clay soils experience – wetter in winter than plants want, drier in summer than they need. Incorporating well-rotted garden compost, composted bark or a quality soil conditioner at one to two barrows per square metre at the preparation stage makes a genuine difference to establishment speed and long-term vigour.

Where drainage is inadequate – where surface water stands for more than 48 hours after heavy rainfall – improving it before planting protects winter crowns and prevents the root rot that affects tender tropical species. Simple decompaction and organic matter incorporation improves drainage on moderately challenging sites. On more severely impeded sites, a drainage channel or French drain running beneath the planting area provides consistent relief. As with all clay garden projects, addressing drainage at the preparation stage is considerably more cost-effective than attempting to remedy problems after planting is established.

Mulching after planting serves two purposes in a tropical garden. In summer it retains moisture and suppresses weeds, which is the standard function of any garden mulch. In autumn it provides the first layer of insulation for crowns of marginally tender species. A deep mulch of composted bark, straw or dried bracken over the crowns of Canna, Hedychium and young Musa basjoo in November reduces frost penetration to the crown and significantly increases survival rates through Surrey winters without requiring full lifting and storage.

Hardy tropical species – the backbone of the scheme

The most reliable tropical gardens in Surrey are built primarily on a backbone of genuinely hardy species that require no winter protection in normal years. These plants develop over time into substantial specimens of genuine presence and create the permanent framework within which more tender species are used to add seasonal interest and additional drama.

Trachycarpus fortunei – Chusan palm

The Chusan palm is the most reliably hardy palm for outdoor cultivation in the UK and the single most effective plant for creating immediate tropical character in a Surrey garden. The fan-shaped fronds on a clear, fibrous stem are unmistakably exotic in character, and a mature specimen of five or more metres creates a visual impact that no other plant in the hardy tropical palette matches.

Trachycarpus fortunei is hardy to approximately -15°C in well-drained conditions, which comfortably exceeds the minimum temperatures recorded in Surrey. It tolerates partial shade but grows more vigorously and produces more fronds in full sun. Young specimens benefit from a fleece covering in their first winter to protect the growing crown, but established plants require no protection whatsoever in Surrey winters. Growth is slow in the early years – typically 15–20cm per year on the stem once established – but accelerates as the plant matures.

Trachycarpus wagnerianus is a smaller, more compact form with stiffer, more wind-resistant fronds that suits exposed positions better than the standard Chusan palm.

Fatsia japonica – Japanese aralia

Fatsia japonica is the most shade-tolerant plant in the hardy tropical palette and one of the most versatile. Its large, deeply lobed, glossy dark green leaves are bold enough to create a tropical impression in positions – north-facing walls, deep shade under canopy trees – where few other architectural plants will perform. It produces creamy white umbel flowers in October and November, when almost nothing else in the garden is flowering, and the flowers are followed by black berries that persist into spring.

Fully hardy in Surrey conditions, tolerant of any aspect, any soil type including heavy clay, and virtually any level of exposure. It is one of the most reliable plants in the entire range covered by this guide. The cultivar 'Spider's Web' has white-mottled foliage that is striking in shade. x Fatshedera lizei is a hybrid between Fatsia japonica and Hedera helix that provides similar bold foliage on a more climbing, sprawling habit – useful for walls and scrambling through structures.

Musa basjoo – Japanese banana

Musa basjoo is the hardiest banana available for UK outdoor cultivation and one of the most dramatic plants it is possible to grow in a Surrey garden. In a sheltered, warm position on fertile Surrey clay, it will produce stems of three metres or more by midsummer, carrying the enormous paddle-shaped leaves – each one up to 1.5m long in good conditions – that create the quintessential tropical impression. In the warm, sheltered gardens of Kingston and Richmond, established clumps will produce multiple stems and develop into genuinely impressive colonies over several years.

The plant is hardy to approximately -10°C at the root, but the above-ground stems are killed by the first significant frost. In a sheltered Surrey garden, the stems typically die back in November or December. The following spring, new stems emerge from the surviving root system and grow with remarkable speed, reaching full height by July in a warm year.

To maximise the size and vigour of stems in the following season, winter protection of the crown is advisable. Cutting the stems down to approximately 50cm after the first frost, then covering the stump with a generous layer of straw, bracken or composted bark held in place with chicken wire or a frost fleece skirt, protects the root system through the coldest months and ensures strong regrowth the following spring. In mild winters, some stems may survive entirely in the most sheltered Surrey positions.

The stem itself can also be protected in situ by wrapping it in several layers of horticultural fleece or bubble wrap around a core of dry straw, creating an insulating column that protects the dormant growing tip within the stem. This approach preserves the height gained in the previous season and allows stems to reach significantly greater heights over multiple years, eventually developing the flowering and fruiting potential that makes fully established banana plants remarkable.

Phyllostachys species – running bamboos

The running bamboos of the Phyllostachys genus are among the most useful structural plants for tropical gardens in Surrey, providing height, density, movement and an authentic tropical character throughout the year. Unlike many tropical plants that are deciduous or die back in winter, Phyllostachys species are evergreen and provide year-round screening and structural presence.

The critical consideration with any running bamboo is rhizome containment. Phyllostachys species spread by underground rhizomes and will colonise an area far beyond their original planting position if not contained. Installing a rhizome barrier – a continuous band of high-density polythylene at least 600mm deep, buried around the planting area with the top edge turned outward at the surface to prevent rhizomes escaping over the top – is essential before planting any running bamboo. This is not optional and not something that can be added after the fact once spreading has begun. A properly contained Phyllostachys planting will remain within its designated area indefinitely and the containment is invisible once the bamboo is established.

Phyllostachys aureosulcata f. spectabilis – golden bamboo. The most visually striking bamboo for tropical schemes, producing bright yellow canes with a distinctive green groove. Canes reach 5–6m in Surrey conditions in an established clump. The yellow and green colouring is strongest on the canes that receive full sun.

Phyllostachys nigra – black bamboo. The canes of Phyllostachys nigra turn from green in their first year to a deep, shining black-brown by their second season. The visual contrast of jet black canes against large-leaved tropical planting is extraordinary. Slightly less vigorous than golden bamboo, typically reaching 3–4m in Surrey, but among the most architecturally distinctive plants available for any garden style.

Phyllostachys vivax f. aureocaulis – the largest-caned bamboo reliably hardy in Surrey conditions, producing canes of up to 8m in a sheltered, warm position. The yellow canes with green stripes are visually similar to P. aureosulcata but bolder in scale.

Tetrapanax papyrifer 'Rex' – rice paper plant

Tetrapanax papyrifer 'Rex' is one of the most dramatic foliage plants available for UK gardens, producing enormous deeply lobed leaves – up to 60–90cm across in good conditions – on a spreading, suckering plant that reaches 3–4m in height in a sheltered Surrey garden. The leaves are covered in a fine white felting on their undersides that catches the light beautifully. White umbel flowers are produced in autumn on established specimens.

It spreads by underground suckers and can cover a significant area over several years. This spreading habit is welcome in a tropical scheme where ground cover is needed, but it must be managed to prevent it colonising areas where it is not wanted. Hardy to approximately -10°C at the root in most Surrey conditions, though above-ground growth is cut back by hard frost in the same way as Musa basjoo. New growth emerges strongly in spring.

Melianthus major – honey bush

Melianthus major is one of the most extraordinarily beautiful foliage plants available for the UK garden. The large, pinnate, blue-grey leaves with serrated leaflets are unlike anything else in the hardy tropical palette – bold without being coarse, architectural without being rigid. It produces deep crimson-brown flower spikes in June and July on established specimens, though the foliage is the primary reason to grow it.

It is borderline hardy in Surrey – reliable in sheltered positions in mild winters, but vulnerable to cold damage in severe winters. In the worst Surrey winters (-8°C to -10°C for extended periods), above-ground growth will be killed back. It typically regenerates strongly from the base in spring, but on particularly cold sites it is worth providing crown protection in the same way as Canna and Hedychium.

Tender tropical species – seasonal drama and winter management

The plants in this section provide some of the most vivid and dramatic elements of a tropical garden scheme but require management to carry them through Surrey winters. The approach to each species and the effort involved varies considerably – from the simple deep mulching that protects Canna crowns in situ through to the full lifting, drying and storage required for tender Dahlia and Hedychium tubers.

The decision about which tender species to include in a tropical scheme should be made honestly against the question of whether the maintenance they require is genuinely manageable for the household. A tropical garden built on a backbone of hardy species, with two or three well-chosen tender species used to add seasonal interest and replaced annually where necessary, is more sustainable and ultimately more satisfying than one that depends entirely on tender plants that require significant winter management.

Canna x generalis cultivars – Indian shot plant

Cannas are among the most effective tender plants for the tropical garden, combining bold, paddle-shaped leaves in green, bronze or striped forms with vivid flowers in orange, red, yellow and pink from July to the first frost. In a warm Surrey summer, established clumps will reach 1.5–2m and flower continuously for three to four months.

The rhizomes are damaged by temperatures below approximately -5°C and must be either protected in situ or lifted and stored. In situ protection – cutting the stems down after the first frost and covering the crown with a generous deep mulch of dry straw or composted bark, minimum 150mm deep – is sufficient to carry Canna rhizomes through most Surrey winters without lifting. In exceptionally cold winters (-8°C or below for more than a few nights), even well-mulched crowns may be damaged, and in these years lifting and storing the rhizomes in frost-free conditions is the safer option.

Lifted rhizomes should be cleaned of soil, dried for a week in a frost-free location, and stored in dry compost, coir or vermiculite in a cool but frost-free place through winter. They can be restarted into growth in March in a heated greenhouse or on a warm windowsill and planted out after the last frost date, typically late May in Surrey.

Cultivar choices for Surrey tropical gardens: 'Tropicanna' (bronze-striped foliage, orange flowers), 'Cleopatra' (green foliage with red spotting, bicoloured flowers), 'Striata' (green foliage with cream stripes, orange flowers) and 'Wyoming' (bronze foliage, orange flowers) are among the most reliable performers. Our autumn planting guide covers lifting and storing tender plants including cannas in detail.

Hedychium gardnerianum – Kahili ginger

Hedychium gardnerianum is the most spectacular of the ginger lilies available for UK outdoor cultivation, producing tall canes of broad, lance-shaped leaves and extraordinary fragrant flower spikes – in palest yellow with vivid orange-red stamens – in August and September. The fragrance is strong and exotic, detectable from several metres, and unlike almost anything else available in the late summer garden.

It is hardy to approximately -5°C in dry conditions, which means Surrey winters are marginal and require management. Crown protection with a deep mulch in November is the minimum requirement. Lifting the rhizomes in October and storing them in frost-free conditions through winter is more reliable, particularly on less sheltered sites. Hedychium gardnerianum is worth the effort for the flowering performance it delivers in August and September.

Hedychium coccineum 'Tara' – a slightly hardier form with orange-red flowers, reliably surviving Surrey winters in a sheltered position with mulch protection.

Ensete ventricosum – Abyssinian banana

Ensete ventricosum is not a true banana – unlike Musa basjoo it does not produce suckers and will not regenerate from the root after a frost. It must be lifted and stored for winter. However, the visual impact of a large specimen – the enormous paddle leaves with a distinctive red midrib on E. ventricosum 'Maurelii' can reach 3m in a good growing season – justifies the effort for the right client and the right scheme.

It is best treated as a feature container plant rather than a border plant, which makes lifting more practical. A large terracotta pot, moved under cover in October and returned outdoors in May after the last frost, allows a specimen to develop over years into something genuinely extraordinary.

Dahlia cultivars – tender tuberous perennials

Dahlias are covered in depth in our dahlias guide and do not require full treatment here. In the context of a tropical garden, the dinner plate dahlias and decorative dahlias in vivid oranges, reds and hot pinks provide exactly the vivid late-season colour that the tropical palette requires from August to October. They associate beautifully with the bold foliage of Canna and Tetrapanax and provide flowering interest at a height and scale that fills the mid-level of a tropical scheme.

Colocasia esculenta – taro, elephant ears

Colocasia esculenta produces the most dramatically heart-shaped leaves of any plant in the tropical palette – enormous, velvety, downward-facing leaves in deep green or, in the cultivar 'Black Magic', an extraordinary deep purple-black. It is essentially aquatic in habit, requiring consistent moisture or even shallow water at the root, and grows with remarkable speed in warm, wet summers. It must be lifted and stored for winter in Surrey – it will not survive frost in the ground. Grown as a container plant in a large pot stood in a tray of water through summer, it can be brought under cover in October without difficulty.

Hard landscaping for the tropical garden

The hard landscaping of a tropical garden plays a different role from that of a contemporary or formal scheme. Rather than defining the design through precision and geometry, it provides a backdrop that allows the planting to dominate. The best hard landscaping in a tropical garden is dark enough and simple enough not to compete with the plants.

Dark Indian sandstone or dark grey porcelain provides a grounding surface that makes surrounding foliage appear more vivid by contrast. Composite or hardwood decking in dark tones – dark brown Iroko, charred timber, or black-stained composite – creates the same effect with a more contemporary character. Sawn granite setts in grey or charcoal are effective as path surfaces through a densely planted tropical scheme.

Boundaries in dark rendered blockwork, weathered timber or painted in a deep tone – navy, charcoal, deep green – recede visually and allow the planting to read against them. A pale rendered wall behind a Trachycarpus or Phyllostachys planting turns the palm fronds or bamboo canes into silhouettes and creates one of the most dramatically effective visual combinations in any tropical garden.

Raised beds, decking platforms and water features all suit the tropical garden well. A dark stone or rendered water feature – a simple rectangular pool or a wall-mounted spout – provides the sound and light reflection that complements tropical planting and creates the sense of a deliberately designed outdoor space rather than simply a collection of exotic plants. Our water features guide covers the full range of options in detail.

Lighting is particularly important in the tropical garden. The architectural quality of Trachycarpus fronds, bamboo canes, banana stems and large-leaved foliage plants is dramatically enhanced by uplighting from below, and a well-lit tropical garden at night can be more striking than in daylight. Spike-mounted uplights at the base of palms, in-ground lights beneath bamboo, and warm-white wash lighting across large foliage all extend the use and enjoyment of the space considerably. Our garden lighting service and garden privacy and screening guide provide further reference on creating an enclosed, well-lit tropical space.

Maintenance for a tropical garden

The maintenance of a tropical garden divides into two distinct regimes: the year-round management of hardy species, and the seasonal management of tender species through the winter period.

Hardy species maintenance is relatively undemanding. Trachycarpus fronds that have died and turned brown should be removed cleanly from the trunk – cutting too close damages the trunk, leaving too much of the dead frond base is untidy. Fatsia japonica benefits from an annual removal of any frosted or damaged leaves in April. Phyllostachys canes that have died (typically in their third or fourth year) should be removed at the base annually to keep the clump tidy and maintain vigour in the new canes. Bamboo benefits from an annual thinning of approximately one third of the oldest canes, which stimulates the production of new, vigorous growth.

Mulching the entire planting in November is one of the most valuable maintenance interventions in a tropical garden. A generous deep mulch – 100–150mm of composted bark or straw – over the entire planted area provides insulation for tender crowns, suppresses winter weed establishment, and retains moisture in the root zone through the cold months. Applied annually, it also continuously improves the soil structure as it decomposes, increasing the organic content of the clay and improving its drainage and moisture-retention characteristics over time.

Tender species management in autumn – cutting back Canna stems, mulching crowns or lifting rhizomes, lifting Hedychium and Colocasia, protecting Melianthus crowns – should be carried out in October to November before the first hard frost. Our winter garden preparation guide and winter gardening guide provide detailed seasonal reference for this period.

Spring management involves removing winter protection, dividing any clumps of Canna or Hedychium that have become congested, replanting stored tender plants after the last frost date, and feeding the entire scheme with a general-purpose slow-release fertiliser to support the rapid growth that tropical plants produce in warm weather. The feeding requirement is higher for tropical gardens than for most other styles – the large, fast-growing species that create the most dramatic effects have correspondingly large nutritional demands.

Irrigation is important for tropical planting in dry summers. Large-leaved plants lose significant amounts of water through their leaf surface and will show stress – leaf curl, browning edges, reduced vigour – during extended dry periods. A drip irrigation system targeting the root zone of key specimens is a worthwhile investment in a tropical garden, providing consistent moisture without the labour of hand watering. Our garden irrigation guide covers the options in detail.

How Flourish designs and builds tropical gardens

Tropical garden design in Surrey requires knowing where the line falls between the plants that will deliver reliable long-term performance in this climate and those that look impressive in a garden centre but will fail in the ground. Craig Davis BSc (Hons) Horticulture brings three decades of experience with the plants in this guide in Surrey conditions – including the winters of 2010 and 2018 that tested the cold hardiness of many exotic species to their limits in the KT and TW postcodes. That experience directly informs the species selection and management guidance we provide for every tropical garden project.

Eli Jacobacci's design process for tropical gardens focuses on the spatial composition of the scheme – how the tall species create a canopy, how the mid-level plants fill the space between canopy and ground, and how the ground level is managed to suppress weeds and provide a coherent surface beneath the planting. The hard landscaping specification is developed alongside the planting rather than separately, ensuring that surface tones, materials and lighting positions relate correctly to the planting above them.

Our construction team installs drainage where required, prepares the soil to the depth and standard that gives large tropical specimens their best start, and plants to the correct depth and orientation – factors that matter more for some tropical species, particularly palms and bananas, than for most conventional garden plants. Where rhizome barriers are required for bamboo, these are installed as part of the construction phase to a depth and specification that will remain effective for decades.

Clients who want a tropical garden that is genuinely managed through the year – including the autumn tender plant programme, spring startup and in-season irrigation management – can access our structured maintenance service, which covers all the specialist seasonal tasks that a tropical garden involves.

For enclosed and courtyard garden projects where tropical planting is particularly well suited, our courtyard garden design guide provides relevant context on designing sheltered enclosed spaces. For the outdoor entertaining aspect that often accompanies tropical garden schemes, our outdoor cooking and entertaining guide and the Ibiza-inspired entertaining garden at Kingston provide useful reference.

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